Zegna fetes London opening with bespoke footwear debut

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Zegna's Adam bespoke shoe
Zegna’s Adam bespoke shoe

Italian fashion label Ermenegildo Zegna is marking the reopening of its London flagship store feet first.

After about 20 months of renovations, the brand’s store on New Bond Street has revealed its updated, expanded look courtesy of Peter Marino. To commemorate this milestone, Zegna has launched its first-ever bespoke footwear collection, which boasts a hybrid British and Italian appeal.

“The new in-store bespoke shoe collection from Zegna looks promising and encourages more personalized foot traffic in its newly renovated New Bond Street store in London,” said Paul Farkas, co-founder/publisher, Athleisure Mag.

“It commemorates both the return of now creative director Alessandro Sartori, as well as the reopening, instilling a warm and unique luxury retail experience,” he said. “Bespoke items and service for personal unique style and experience is modern luxury.”

Mr. Farkas is not affiliated with Zegna, but agreed to comment as an industry expert. Zegna was reached for comment.

New look
Zegna’s 6,500-square-foot global store gives its Su Misura suiting its own floor. Here, clients can get measured and consult with tailors in a private space complete with a midcentury bar.

Zegna boutique in London
Zegna boutique in London

Among the decorations within the store is a tapestry by South African artist William Kentridge, commissioned as part of Zegna’s Art in Global Stores initiative under its ZegnArt program. This depicts in silhouette the eponymous founder of the label surrounded by a sewing machine, clothing label and accounting books.

Within this new store, Zegna is launching a new bespoke service. Available exclusively at the London boutique, the capsule collection includes nine styles based on the friends of newly installed creative director Alessandro Sartori.

Mr. Sartori joined Zegna in June from Berluti, the LVMH-owned menswear label well-known for its bespoke footwear. Before Berluti, he spent eight years at Zegna working on its diffusion line.

While Mr. Sartori is having something of a homecoming, this personally inspired footwear acts as an introduction to not only his own personality and design style, but his social circle.

Among them is Zach, a professional bike racer from Los Angeles who inspired a Jodhpur boot designed for the globetrotter. London-based guitarist Adam influenced a smart casual derby shoe, while Australian-born Parisian chef Timothy would require the convenience of a laceless gusset style.

Editor Patrick gets a loafer, while inventive Milan-based bartender Alexander got a punched casual shoe that is equally at home during day or night.

Zegna’s Alexander shoe

David, an art dealer with sophisticated style, informed a lace-up loafer, and illusionist Sean appeared to need a medallion oxford. Sommelier Michael got a dress oxford with a square toe.

Featured most prominently is ballet dancer Benjamin Millepied, a longtime friend of Mr. Sartori’s and a frequent collaborator (see story). Mr. Millepied, formerly the director of the Paris Opera Ballet, inspired a double monk strap shoe, which Mr. Sartori deems perfect for a ballet opening gala when paired with a white tuxedo.

The dancer models this look in a short film by Zach Gold that introduces the collection. In the almost three minute video, Mr. Millepied is shown performing a series of modern ballet moves in a studio to a percussive soundtrack.

Ermenegildo Zegna’s first Bespoke Shoe Collection

He starts out in a white shirt and pants, and occasionally leaps behind a set piece to add a piece of his ensemble. Eventually, he dances in a full white suit complete with black tie and shoes.

Store specific
Exclusive items can help drive traffic to a specific store, a benefit especially if that boutique is newly opened.

Italian apparel and accessories label Tod’s marked the reopening of its London flagship store with some ink.

The brand’s boutique at 2-5 Old Bond Street is now more than double its previous size at 6,000 square feet, with three levels selling the full men’s and women’s collections, including ready-to-wear, handbags and shoes. Commemorating the opening, Tod’s worked with tattoo artist Saira Hunjan to create a limited-edition handbag (see story).

U.S. fashion label Tom Ford similarly celebrated its global retail expansion by releasing a fragrance that was exclusively available at its new London boutique.

The brand’s first bricks-and-mortar location in London opened in 2013 and carried Tom Ford’s Private Blend London fragrance exclusively for six months. Location-based products create an exclusive experience for brand enthusiasts and the experience can be heightened if the product is only available for a short period of time (see story).

For Zegna, this store exclusive collection is a representation of its community.

“Sartori has long-championed multi-generational lifestyle in his work, and it is charming to see dear dynamic and diverse long-time friends as inspiration for the capsule collection,” Mr. Farkas said. “The gesture pays an authentic homage to those relationships around him and demonstrates what it is to be part of the Zegna family.

“Indeed walking in the shoes of such intriguing archetypes as dancers, editors, bikers, chefs and sommeliers, sets up an enchanted storyworld to present the collection,” he said. “From the deco square dress Oxford for wardrobe essentials to the timeless loafer for comfort and flair, the selections are spot-on for the well-suited dapper and creative man.

“The triple stitch and leather sneakers and neoprene boots nicely add to modern luxury athleisure lifestyle offerings as well.”

By Courtesy Luxury Daily

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